The moon was 2 days full. I had been sitting behind the house watching it for an hour
from the time it peaked over the horizon.
Here along the Magdalena River the only lights to be seen were the moon,
the stars, and the faint glow of the kerosene candle from the open door.
Part of my excuse for focusing on the moon was that it is
hard for me to follow Spanish conversation in the dark, especially with the
full chorus background noise of frogs, insects, and night birds. Estéban and Candelaria, my hosts, were
chatting with Caña, the president of the community junta, and Gladys, my CPT
partner. There was a pause, and I
was aware they were waiting for my opinion.
It was a question I had been asked last year by another
campesino family. This time it
came from Caña. Could I briefly
describe the differences between the lives of campesinos in Colombia and
campesinos living in the US?
Understand that earlier that day I had offered to help Estéban with his
corn harvest and had managed two hours of hand picking field corn in 100 degree
heat before I surrendered.
Estéban continued another three hours before switching to lighter chores. Candelaria had prepared a wonderful fish supper on the wood fire in the kitchen. The fish was accompanied by rice, fried sweet plantain, and a salad of chopped cabbage, onion, and tomato.
Estéban continued another three hours before switching to lighter chores. Candelaria had prepared a wonderful fish supper on the wood fire in the kitchen. The fish was accompanied by rice, fried sweet plantain, and a salad of chopped cabbage, onion, and tomato.
Last year I had a hard time making the comparison. One difficulty is that it is easy to
want to insert the word “poor” into the conversation. That is usually not helpful as these people would not
generally describe themselves as poor, but rather frustrated by a system that
seems to be weighted against them.
So this is what I told Caña about US campesinos. I told him that in the extreme southern
part of the US there were probably some farmers who worked forty to eighty
acres raising fruit, vegetables and livestock living in simple houses with
families much like their own. The
biggest difference would be that alongside virtually every one of those US
farms there would be a gravel road, and alongside that road there would be an
electric line. This infrastructure
is a basic service that many, many rural Colombian families can only dream of,
and it has nothing to do with how hard they work or how much education they
have. It keeps them from being
able to effectively market their produce and earn a wage that allows them to
move forward as a community. Caña,
Estéban, and Candelaria agreed.
This lack of basic services appears to me to be a product of
a dysfunctional government which can sign trade agreements with the US, Canada,
and Europe that are irrelevant, if not oppressive, to the majority of their
citizens. Using broad
economic averages like Gross Domestic Product, the Colombian government and
their global partners pat themselves on the back for progress that cannot be
seen, felt, or tasted by rural residents of the Garzal community of the
Magdalena Media. Members of
that community continue to work to make their voices heard, despite threats
from paramilitary groups and the persons who sponsor them in order to force
them off their land for oil palm, coal, oil or gold exploitation. CPT continues to stand with them and
the many other national and international groups working on their behalf.